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Great Classed Growths of Saint-Emilion 2005
Chronicle n° 37 (March 1st, 2007)
2005
The vintage has brought out the best in the Merlot grape and offers structures with unprecedented fat and density. I wrote in my notes: 2005 – the pulp of the 98 and 2000 vintages and the tannic finish of the 61s that I have been tasting over the past ten years.
To be sure, the aromatic expression of the Merlot evokes a sunny year, but without the scented drawbacks of an excess of maturity, that is to say, those very animal nuances at the nose which become disagreeable (“foxy”) as the bottle evolves.
It has been known for a long time that limestone soils, which are colder and chillier, balance out the excesses of hot weather. This natural equilibrium which protects quality and complexity of taste does not exist on sandy soils. Now in 2005, due to the equal climate, the Merlot grape came to maturity without suffering from any excess. This is even truer on seemingly sandy parcels with a cold clayey subsoil.
Obviously, the association of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and sometimes Cabernet Sauvignon is amazing once again. When it is not the terroir which plays the balancing role, then there is the Cabernet, just as mellow as the Merlot in 2005, but livelier, which brings the indispensable note of freshness. On rather chalky soils, there is still classicism, as represented by a tight rather than wide corpulence, but with the flesh of the 2005s as well.
In conclusion, whatever the terroir of these Great Classed Growths of Saint-Emilion, sandy, sandy-clay, chalky, chalky-clay or gravel, the vintage fits all, so long as the work on the vines and in the chai was carried out well. In addition, over and above those nuances, remember that everywhere an unprecedented sensation of pleasure dominates the tasting. This pleasure comes from the presence of an incredible mellowness. But for all that, the wines remain rich in tannins and aromas as the final length shows.
This mellowness will encourage the drinking of these wines while they are young. At the same time, quality tannins insure very favourable aging.
2005 is truly a very great vintage.
Jean-Marc Quarin
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